Sungubala Drakensberg Mountain Bush Lodge Accommodation

Sentinel Peak is located in the northern KwaZulu Natal Drakensberg and is one of the highest free-standing peaks of the range (3166m or 10386ft). It was also the first major peak to be climbed via a rock climbing route. This was in 1910 by W. Wybergh and Lt. N.M. McLeod.

The Angus-Leppan Route was first climbed by the husband and wife team of Peter and Pam Angus-Leppan, in 1959. Originally it was called the North Face Route or Gendarme Route.

Most guided trips meet the night before at the Sungubala Resort. Then leave early the next morning, by car for the Sentinel car park. The round trip from the car park and back can be done in 10 hours. This makes it a viable short weekend proposition. At the summit beacon there is a book that can be signed by climbers.

Angus-Leppan Route Description:

This is probably the Drakensberg’s finest rock climbing route, with good, easy to moderate climbing on all 6 pitches. The route is exposed in places with long yet easy traverses, which make for very good photo opportunities. Descent is via the Standard route and requires two short abseils.

This line can be a good introduction to climbing larger mountains. Clients need to be at least acquainted with belaying, knot tying and basic rope work.

drakensberg rock climbing
angus-leppan route This is a very popular route, being sunny and exposed on fairly good rock. There are amazing views from the summit and the access to the start of the climbs is easy. For the benefit of overseas-based climbers, the grades do not exceed about UK V Diff or USA 5.4. Alpine Adjectival AD.

20m D. From the neck, climb up easily, heading diagonally left and belay on a good grass ledge below a short steep wall.
20m E. “Grotto Pitch”. Climb the wall to a small, vegetated cubbyhole, with one awkward move on the way. From the cubbyhole traverse to the left for 3m. Continue up an easy section for 10m and into a short grassy gully. Belay near the base of an open book/large recess and adjacent to the start of a good rock ledge that runs off to the left.
25m E3. Traverse left along the rock ledge (exposed) which leads around a corner and then up a narrow ramp. Belay at the top of the ramp adjacent to the huge recess that splits the north face. Take care in setting up this belay, as some of the rock is loose.
15m F1. Travers to the right across an exposed slab, using spaced footholds, and continue onto the corner. Climb up and belay at a large block on the ledge above. From here, climbers following the leader can be safely top-roped across the traverse. The only significant gear for the leader during the traverse is a 3cam in a crack at foot level after 3 or 4 meters.
35m D. Traverse to the right along a good rock ledge for 20m, crossing a recess and continuing around a corner in the process. Climb easily up to a belay on a large blocky ledge.
5m F3. Move up into the cubby hole a couple of meters above the stance. Clip a good peg under the roof of the cubbyhole and then, at the highest point, reach round for a good hold and use this to move diagonally up and right through the overhang. One intermediate sloping hold is needed to stand up and reach good holds. This pitch was originally aided up a line a couple of meters to the right of the cubbyhole. It is also possible to climb this short section further to the left of the main cubbyhole. From the top of this pitch you can walk to the right along a broad ledge and join the topmost part of the standard route. Alternatively, complete the route as opened, by climbing the final pitch.

What to bring?

Waterproof jacket, polar fleeces, gloves, hat, sun cream, full water bottle, snacks, torch, harness, helmet, and belay device.

When to visit?
Sentinel can be visited at anytime of the year. However it is best during the autumn and winter months when there is a good chance of stable weather. During summer, afternoon rain can be a problem which means that an early start must be made.

About the guides:
This climb is guided either by Gavin Raubenheimer or Colin McCoy of Peak High Mountaineering.

Rates?
Please visit the Peak High Mountaineering website or contact them here to enquire about rates for this climb.

Other routes up Sentinel Peak...

Standard Route – Sentinel Peak Rock Climb

Sentinel Peak is located in the northern Kwa Zulu Natal Drakensberg and is one of the highest free-standing peaks of the range.(3166m or 10386ft) It was also the first major peak to be climbed via a rock climbing route. This was in 1910 by W. Wybergh and Lt. N.M. McLeod.

The Standard Route:

This is a beginners’ route and a great introduction to mountaineering. The climb starts in an obvious recess on the west side of the Sentinel, about 100m above the contour path and about the same distance diagonally up the left slope from the neck between Sentinel and Beacon Buttress. Climbing the recess involves only one D grade pitch of about 15 meters (UK V Dif or US 5.4) . From this point it takes about 40 minutes to scramble to the summit. A rope is used on one section of the scramble. Clients need to be at least acquainted with belaying, knot tying and basic rope work.

McLeod’s Variation: It is possible to add another full pitch of climbing by doing this variation near the summit, which involves fairly strenuous climbing.

What to bring?

Waterproof jacket, polar fleeces, gloves, hat, sun cream, full water bottle, snacks, torch, harness, helmet, and belay device.

About the guides:

The guiding is carried out by either Gavin Raubenheimer or Colin McCoy of Peak High Mountaineering.

Rates?

Please visit the Peak High Mountaineering website or contact them here to enquire about rates for this climb.

Rock Climbing Activities at Sungubala Mountain Bush Lodge, Northern Drakensberg, KwaZulu-Natal

Guided ascents of Sentinel Peak via the Angus-Leppan route

Other routes up Sentinel Peak...

Standard Route – Sentinel Peak Rock Climb